Tocai Fruilano, Grilled Peach and Prosciutto Pizza

by Christel Stiver

 When we think of Italy we are romanticized by images of Tuscan rolling hills filled with radiant sunflowers, Gondolas gliding through mazes of waterways in Venice, and the breathtaking Vatican in Rome. These are special places, which is why they have attracted tourists for decades and are well known to even those that have yet to step onto Italian tierra. However there are many regions of Italy, twenty-one to be exact, that all have their own unique traditions, cuisine, and wine that are rarely touched by outsiders.

For example, Friuli, a small region found in the northeast of Italy shares borders with both Austria and Slovenia while the landscape boasts a bit of contrasting elements as the Alps shelter the north and eastern perimeters before disappearing into the Adriatic Sea on the south. On the surface it appears their identity is troubled with the mountain versus sea and Italian versus Austro-Slavic, but in fact Friuli has some of the most well defined cuisine and wine in Italy. The best prosciutto in the world comes frorm the district of San Daniele in Friuli. This uncooked aged ham has very strict guidelines ensuring its quality that begins with the raising of the pigs on stringently mandated farms. And the local wine to drink with this local delicacy is Tocai Fruilano, one of the oldest indigenous grape varietals of Friuli, with plantings in the area dating back to the eleventh century.

This grape bears no relation to the Tokaji wine of Hungary or Tokay d' Alsace. Because of these similarities, the European Union recently banned the use of "Tocai" so the grape may soon be more commonly known as "Fruitland Bianco".

Tocai, like many Italian whites, has an animated acidity backed by fresh mineral aspects. Flavors range from appley and spicy, to creamy and peachy, with hints of apricot and almonds.

Well-known wine producer, Marco Felluga, bottles a Tocai of great distinction, Russiz Superiore. His cache to quality is the proximity to both the mountains and the sea, along with the mineral-rich but poor soils, creating the ideal situation for complex, well-structured Tocais that are very age-worthy. After handpicking the Tocai grapes, the juice is pressed from its skins, and vinified in 85% steel tanks and 15% wood.

The Russiz Superiore 2005 boasts distinct aromas of almond blossoms with floral undertones and chamomile. The mouth is rich, silky and refined. The alcohol, which is balanced by a fresh, fruity character, contributes to a full body and a pleasant, long-lasting finish.

As mentioned, prosciutto is typical to serve with Tocai. Prosciutto and anything juicy and sweet have great affection for one another….think prosciutto and melon or even better ripe peaches. With all the Palisades peaches at our fingertips this time of year, now is an ideal time for making a Grilled Peach and Prosciutto Pizza. Pizza is fun to make and the pairing is simple...the minerally freshness of the Tocai keeps all the flavors and textures of the pizza in balance together with the salty flavor of Prosciutto.  This casual eating and drinking just might lead you to Friuli ....

Grilled Peach & Prosciutto Pizza

*If you have the time and patience, make the pizza dough from scratch--follow the recipe below. If not you can buy pizza dough from a local pizzeria or some markets sell pizza dough in the freezer section.

Pizza Toppings:

2 Yellow Peaches, halved

1/4 lb of Prosciutto di San Daniele, sliced thin

1/2 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese

1/4 lb loose baby arugula

1/2 lemon

2 tablespoons olive oil

sea salt, freshly ground black pepper

Method:

Preheat a Charcoal or Gas Grill. Lightly season the peach halves with salt, pepper and drizzle with olive oil. When the grill is hot, grill the peach halves starting with the pulp side down. Allow about three minutes per side. Set peaches aside to cool. After cool, peel the skin off and thinly slice.

Shape your pizza by flattening the ball of dough into a thick disk. On a lightly floured board, rotate the disk as you work and flatten the center of the pizza with your fingertips or the heel of your hand. Keep turning the dough to get a relatively 10-inch circle. Keep pulling the ridge slightly so the circle gets larger. Be careful not to make the center too thin or the ridge more than 1/2 inch deep. When the pizza is shaped well carefully brush olive oil on each side to prevent from sticking on the grill. At this point carefully transfer the pizza to the grill, and grill for about four minutes on each side, set it on the side to cool off until it is ready for the toppings.

Meanwhile, toss the arugula in a small bowl with one tablespoon of olive oil, lemon juice, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Add the ricotta cheese, spreading on an even layer. Layer the prosciutto slices in between the peaches put it back in the grill just to melt the cheese. When warm put it on the table and garnish with the arugula salad. Finish with an aged cheese if desired--Grana Padano or Parmiggiano, and fresh black pepper. Slice and serve. 

Basic Pizza Dough:

1 envelope dried yeast

1 cup warm water

4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 cup warm water

1. In a 2-cup glass measure, wit a table fork, dissolve the yeast in the 1 cup of warm water. Stir in 1/2 cup of the flour, cover with a clean dishtowel and let it stand until the mixture foams up to about double--almost 2 cups--about 30 minutes. (put in a relatively warm place)

2. In a large bowl, combine 3 1/2 cups of the flour with the salt. Stir in the yeast mixture and the remaining 1/2 cup of warm water. Stir until the dough masses together. Gather the dough into a ball and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Knead, folding and turning the dough onto itself, then pushing it away from you with the heel of your hand, about 10-12 minutes, adding, little by little, just enough flour to keep the dough from sticking. Be careful not to add too much flour or too much at one time. When finished, the dough should not stick to the board; it should be smooth and slightly damp on the surface and very elastic. Dust the dough lightly all over with flour and place in a bowl to rise, covered with a clean dishtowel, for about 1 hour, or until it has slightly more than doubled in bulk.

3. Punch down the dough and divide into 4 parts. If you only intend to use a portion of the dough, form each fourth into a smooth ball and let the ones to be used immediately rise on a floured board covered with a dishtowel. Refrigerate or freeze the remaining balls.