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Pork Scallopine with Maipe Bonarda
by Christel Stiver
Like any good relationship physical attributes only take you so far. There needs to be an emotional connection. Mental stimulation. Excitement. With its deep layers of mystery wine has this capacity to offer surprises at any moment.
One of the most thrilling aspects of wine for me is discovering exotic grapes that some brave winemaker has re-kindled from almost non-existence and essentially given life to. These are grapes that are worthy of recognition and deserve to be tasted. And my most recent rendezvous with one of these unknown grapes is Bonarda.
This red wine grape of Argentina was until recently, the most widely planted grape in Argentina; now it is surpassed in plantings by Malbec. Traditionally Bonarda was used as a blending varietal or in bulk wine production, but now thanks to certain winemakers, is being produced as a single varietal wine of quality. Its convoluted identity has not helped its case much either-- it is thought that Bonarda found its way to Argentina via Italian immigrants but others speculate whether the Italian Bonarda is the same as the Argentina grape with the same name. Whichever it is Bonarda wines of Argentina vary from lighter-bodied and fruity to full with cherry and plum flavors and typically with moderate tannins and acidity.
However with concentrated fruit from older vines, and especially when oak aged, Bonardas can also be big, fruity, dense and tannic wines with deep color sometimes having fig and raisin characteristics.
Still small in production numbers, the Pelizzatti family of Maipe Winery produces a Bonarda from vines planted 30 years ago at their winery in the Luján de Cuyo sub region of Mendoza, the largest wine region of Argentina. Grapes for the wines of Maipe are grown at extraordinary altitudes of 3,000 feet in year-long sunny and dry conditions, allowing for almost organic viticulture practices and a long growing season, beefing the wines flavors and color. 
The 2008 Maipe Bonarda demonstrates a pure example of the flavor intensity potential in Bonarda. Deep ruby red in color with enticing wild berry and smoke aromas and hints of violets the wine opens to a round and velvety texture lifted by supple tannins.
With food, Bonarda works with both grilled and braised meats, which will help cut through the hefty tannins. For the Maipe Bonarda I wanted something with a delicate texture and flavor to complement the light floral notes in the wine so I served a Pork Scallopine with Feta and Pine Nuts. The wine’s richness upholds the smoky essence of the meat while the fresh herbs and feta play off the lush fruit of the wine. The Bonarda is more than just lesser-known red wine of Argentina, it illustrates the endless thrill of learning that wine offers!
Pork Scallopine with Feta and Pine Nuts
1 lb free-range pork fillet
Stuffing:
1/3 cup fresh white breadcrumbs
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs-mint, basil or flat-leaf parsley
finely grated zest of one lemon
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
Kitchen String
　
To Assemble:
Dijon Mustard, 1/4 cup Feta cheese
Directions:
Cut the pork into 2 cm thick slices. Place cut side down, between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and gently pound to 1/2 cm thick slices. There should be about 8 slices.
Stuffing: Combine the breadcrumbs, Parmesan, herbs, lemon zest and pine nuts in a bowl. Add the olive oil and stir through with a fork. Season.
To Cook:
Preheat the barbecue. Brush the rolls with olive oil and season. Grill over a medium heat, turning to cook on all sides, about 6-8 minutes in total. Cooking time with depend on thickness of the rolls. Remove to a plate, cover loosely and rest for 5 minutes.
To Serve:
Snip off the string and cut in half on the diagonal. Transfer to a platter and serve with thinly sliced fennel or arugula.
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