Just because the holiday season has come and gone doesn’t mean that we have to stop enjoying ourselves. When the arctic winds bring to us sub-zero temperatures and a handful of significant dumpings of snow, we tend to gravitate towards hearty red varietals like Cabernet and Zinfandel. I would offer the suggestion that you don’t overlook some other varietals that bring warmth and comfort on chilly January nights.  We’ve brought in some fantastic wine from the Rhone in the past month and J.L. Chave’s “Silene” exemplifies the most endearing qualities of the only varietal allowed in the Crozes-Hermitage appellation, Syrah. 

 

The Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, one of the oldest and finest estates in the Northern Rhone, has been producing beautifully expressive Syrah as the vineyard has been passed from father to son since 1481. The current Jean-Louis, a UC Davis graduate who joined his father Gerard at the vineyard in 1992, is responsible for the oversight of one of the most respected and historical Rhone producers in the world and their impressive property on the hill of Hermitage. He also sources grapes from the region to create special examples of the region’s unique terroir and Syrah’s expression of it.   The “Silene” comes from sourced grapes (100% Syrah) grown completely organically from only hillside vineyards, providing the grapes with superior sun exposure to ripen the grapes and ideal drainage. 

 

This particular vintage of Chave’s “Silene” succeeds in delivering the best qualities of French Syrah. The nose possesses a smoky, ripe red cherry quality that reminds us of summer barbeque. On the palate, this wine comes alive with a combination of smooth leathery tannins, meaty dark fruit, and a firm, acidic backbone that creates a wide range of food pairing possibility. 

 

Normally lamb dishes call for a Bordeaux style power or a Rioja’s ripe fruit. Amazingly, the affordable “Silene” transcends most Syrah at its price point and offers a perfect balance of strong, yet approachable tannins with smoky, ripe dark berries. The peppery, buttery preparation of the lamb will not only pair well with this wine, it will bring out its most beautiful qualities.

 

Lamb

Preparation

For Fennel Butter:
Mix all ingredients with fork in medium bowl. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.)

For Lamb:
Position rack in bottom third of oven and preheat to 450°F. Pour 2 tablespoons oil into large roasting pan. Place pan directly atop 2 burners over medium-high heat. Sprinkle lamb with salt and pepper. Add lamb to pan and brown on all sides, about 8 minutes total. Remove pan from heat. Brush lamb with half of seasoned butter.

Roast lamb 30 minutes. Reduce heat to 350°F; continue roasting until thermometer inserted into thickest part of meat registers 130°F for medium-rare, about 40 minutes longer. Transfer to platter; tent with foil. Let stand 20 minutes.

Skim off fat from drippings in roasting pan. Place pan atop 2 burners over high heat. Add wine and broth. Boil until mixture is reduced to 2 cups, about 13 minutes. Whisk in remaining seasoned butter (sauce will be thin). Season sauce to taste with salt and pepper.

Garnish lamb with rosemary sprigs, if desired. Serve with sauce.