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Grilled Radicchio Bruschetta with Goat Cheese
by Christel Stiver
Destriero, Cantine di Castignano, $15.99
There is something so nostalgic about the smell of charcoal burning. The smell carries from one backyard to the next, beckoning those that come in its path, almost offering an open invitation on behalf of the griller, not asking, but telling all those in the vicinity to come for dinner.
When this moment strikes and you find yourself overcome by the seduction of grilling what wine will you drink? There are countless potentials, many robust reds that are stellar matches with the bold flavors of a zesty homemade Barbeque sauce. But when simply grilling meats and vegetables, I like to fall back on earthy Italian reds. With their vibrant personality, supple tannins and smoky, foresty aspects they have the natural ability to mimic the smoky intensity of charred foods.
Destriero, Cantine di Castignano, a wine from the Marches region of Italy, excels as a partner with grilled food. The Destriero is a combination of Sangiovese and Montepulciano, both known for their dual abilities to drink now or mature handsomely over the years. Typically known for its ethereal aromas of black cherry and wild herbs, Sangiovese is beefed up in this wine by the plump, blackberry flavors of Montepulciano.
Situated primarily in the upper hills with altitudes ranging up to 2,300 feet above sea level, the grapes are cultivated in vineyards found in an area dominated by the peaks of the Monti Sibillini. According to legend, the district was the preferred home of Sibilla, a prophetess who had obtained the gift of immortality from Apollo and the capacity to appear in different places at different times.
These grapes are of outstanding quality, as the wine from the province of Rosso Piceno is classified as Superiore, guaranteeing that the grapes are grown in this limited area and must age for one year in wooden barrels.
Adding to the broad appeal of this wine and its capacity to partner with grilled food, is its origin, in the Marches, which next to Tuscany is famous for its grilled breads and vegetables. What better way to celebrate this wine’s food potential then to serve it with a Grilled Radicchio Bruschetta. Serve it as an appetizer as your meat marinates or as a main component if you are vegetarian.
The pairing works harmoniously as the smoky, earthy flavor of the radicchio captures the smoky and herbaceous essence of the wine. The Sangiovese is brilliant with food, known for its food-friendly acidity, which not only acts as a crutch for the vinegar that can clash with many wines, but it also clears the strong charred finish from the mouth. The dried cherry, plum, and herbaceous nuances of the wine play off the bitterness of the radicchio while latching onto the sweet earthiness of the cheese. The Destriero is balanced, smooth and persistent, just as persistent as the smell of charcoal burning from your grill, enchanting you to drink this wine and grill something.
Grilled Radicchio Bruschetta with Goat Cheese
3 heads radicchio lettuce
6 slices streaky bacon
6 slices sourdough bread
1 clove garlic, peeled
8 oz of soft feta or goat’s cheese
extra virgin olive oil
balsamic vinegar
1 long red chili, seeded, finely sliced
fresh marjoram or oregano
Preheat the grill plate of the barbecue.
Cut each radicchio in half through the core. Place cut side up on the bench and drizzle with a little olive oil and season. Wrap a slice of bacon around each half and secure with a toothpick. Place cut side down over a medium low heat and grill until the bacon is crisp on all sides. Lightly brush the bread with olive oil and grill both sides until golden. Rub one side with the garlic clove. Spread the bread generously with cheese and top with radicchio. Place on a serving platter and drizzle with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Season with salt and scatter over the chili and the herbs.
Serves 6 as an entree or appetizer.
